Monthly Archives: September 2017

Aqui

My quest to find the best lechon in Houston led me to Aqui, the new Southeast Asian cuisine created by Chel Paul Aqui, a “Top Chef” champ who is behind the success of of several Austin restaurants. Another food blogger told me about their lechon and urged me to try it and see if it’s up to my expectation.

I always make it a habit of viewing the restaurant’s menu before I decide to book. The restaurant opened less than two weeks ago so their menu is not up in their website. But since lechon was already promised, I decided to wing it. Imagine my surprise as I sat down and realized that the menu is filled with Filipino dishes. EVerything is certainly familiar except that the presentation was really unique, and well, fancy.

There is a column called “Perfect Bites” and you can choose one or a couple of delicious samplers. I chose three of these as my appetizer.

Dinuguan and Rice Cake – pork jowls cooked in pork blood on top of a rice cake (puto)
Ensaymada – brioche with scamorza filling topped with Iberico ham and Manchego cheese

I used to bake ensaymada back in the Philippines. But I was not fancy then. I just topped it with cheddar cheese. I am serisouly considering baking these brioches again, this time with all the fancy trimmings.

Tapioca Dumpling with ground pork, peanut and salted radish. This was too salty and spicy.
D had a Filipino classic – Yellowfin Tuna Kinilaw, it had coconut sauce and jackfruit. It even had the siling labuyo which frankly, should have come with a warning as it is super hot.
So here’s my LECHON. They serve the belly part and the requisite crispy skin.
It came complete with all the trimmings: the liver sauce, atchara, kim chi and nam chim
D had the Bistek – this is a fancy-fied version as it uses Wagyu steak, cooked medium well.
I had Turon for dessert – it had banana cream, instead of the real banana. It reminded me of fried ice cream
D had this chocolate curry mousse with cocoa crumbs. I never thought curry would go well with chocolate.
D with his Cotes-du-Rhone

My verdict: Every dish turned out great. I was very impressed by the creativity on what used to be everyday food that I had growing up. The lechon,  however, was still not up to what I expected. This was more like lechon kawali (deep fried pork belly) and not the conventional lechon, which is the whole pig roasted in a spit.

I am happy, however,  that someone elevated the Southeast Asian cuisine to this level. The restaurant  is located in the Montrose area, right in the heart of all the hip foodie hangouts and it hangs with the best of them. The last time I was in a similar restaurant was back in New York, 2013, at Purple Yam when they made it to Michelin publication. It’s a hight time that Houston would have one as well.

Aqui, 520 Westheimer Rd, Houston, TX

 

One Fifth (Romance Languages)- Houston

We rushed back from Fredericksburg for this restaurant reservation so I was really hoping that it was worth it. And it was.

One Fifth is Chris Shepherd’s (of Underbelly) five-year project featuring five different restaurant concepts. The first one (last year) was Steak, which I unforgivably missed. I was determined not to miss this year’s so as soon as I got a reservation, I knew I had to keep it.

This year’s concept, Romance Languages, is French, Spanish and Italian Cuisine. It’s really hard to get bad food from such cuisine so I knew that one way or another, we will end up happy.

I started with a very refreshing LE CHIEN ROSÉ — vodka, grapefruit, house cherry, turbinado, sparkling rosé
D had a very interesting 2011 Syrah
D’s appetizer – CRUDO made of snapper
I had CHARRED OCTOPUS–almond romesco, salsa verde, squid chicharones

For entree, I chose the suckling pig aka cochinillo. In the Philippines, it is called lechon. I could have had the entire pig at the price of this dish but it did not even taste half as good! Here’s when I’m really starting to have a bad case of homesickness…If I didn’t have to compare it with Cebu’s Inasal, this dish would have bode well.

SUCKLING PIG PRESSE–white bean puree, charred broccolini, red pepper mustarda
D had CHICKEN ROULADE–whipped potatoes, mushroom jus, truffle
I love the dessert—croquembouche!!! Takes a bit of time to execute so order early (they recommend 20 minutes)
It paired excellent with this 1963 Rivesaltes, easily the best dessert wine I’ve had by far.

This restaurant is faultless. Not an easy feat in this city crawling with really good restaurants. Our server, Emily, was above par.  I kick myself for having missed the Steak concept they had earlier. I ditched that reservation for Roka Akor, which was no slouch either. Next year’s concept is Fish. I can’t wait.

One Fifth, 1658 WESTHEIMER RD, Houston, TX